Ben Mervis’s new cookbook has been a hit in Paris, laying waste to centuries of sniffiness about stodgy, unsophisticated cuisine
By Adam Sage
When The British Cookbook, a tome containing 550 of the UK’s most quintessential recipes, was published in France this month, its author Ben Mervis was sceptical.
Mindful that British gastronomy has a poor reputation on the other side of the Channel, he wondered whether the French really wanted to know how to make purée de pois (mushy peas), oeufs à l’écossaise (Scotch eggs) or anguilles en gelée (jellied eels).
“I wasn’t 100 per cent sure how it would be received,” said the American food writer, who has become an ambassador for British cooking.
He need not have worried. His work — Le Livre de la Cuisine British, as it is in French — has gone down remarkably well among Parisian critics who seem to be shedding longstanding prejudices. “No, British cuisine is not that vile,” wrote Le Monde after consulting Mervis’s recipes for such dishes as leek and potato soup, grilled kippers, Bakewell tart and sticky toffee pudding.
Noting that the French viewed British cooking as “too fatty, not sophisticated enough and even a bit strange”, the newspaper hailed the publication of the cookbook as a chance for “the reader to take a new look at this cuisine and to discover that it is far richer, more diverse and singular than it seems”.
The Libération newspaper said the book had been published in France amid an upsurge of interest in British cuisine, with chefs like Calum Franklin enjoying success with his new Parisian restaurant, Public House. The paper asked whether it was time for France to put aside its “scornful” view of British cooking, which it said had been summed up by Jacques Chirac, the late French president, who claimed at a G8 summit in 2005 that it was “the worst that exists, apart from Finland’s”.
Mervis begs to differ. “I think it’s delicious,” he said. “When I was growing up in the US, you heard all the clichés about British food and weather. But since coming here, I see it very differently.”



